4a) '47 Ford

JMJ

This car I purchased in 1995, it has been waiting all this time for some attention. Now is the time, besides I gave it to Beep, ever so often she says "Honey when are you going to get started on my car?" Like I said Now is the time.This is our current project which I plan to have drivable by this summer, I will leave it in sealer primer until I get all the bugs worked out. The first item to be completed was a project plan.

a) Plan

The 47 Ford Project Plan was developed on Omni OutLiner 3.0.1, it is quite long if you wish to view it click here: 47 Plan


b) Process

This is my first complete Street Rod project. Some work was done when I bought the car, however, I had to redo all the previous work so I'm considering this a complete project.


Remove Body From Frame: Quite a bit of work had already been done before I developed a project plan, so we skipped ahead to remove the body from the frame and attach it to a body cart.

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We removed all the bolts holding the body to the frame, attached a lift bar to the body, and lifted it off with an electric hoist.

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The body was attached to a body cart which required us to use some 2x4s, lag bolts and long wood screws making very sure the body was securely attached to the cart before detaching the hoist.

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Box Rear Frame Sections: The frame diagonal measurements were made and found to be within 1/8 " of each other, figured that was as good as Henry made it. When checking the frame out I found that the rear sections were not boxed. Being that the rear spring hangers were located in the middle of those areas, I felt they should be boxed. Using a piece of 12 gauge steel plate  I fabricated it so I could fold the edges to match the existing boxing on the left side. The slices were made with a Milwaukee sawzall and the holes with a 1.125" holesaw.    

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Once the edges were folded the pieces were clamped and spot welded in place. The same procedure was repeated on the right side. When the boxing on both sides was spotted in place then both sides were fully welded by using 1/2 " long beads and skipping from side to side to keep distortion to a minimum. After the welding was finished the frame diagonal measurements were rechecked and found to be unchanged. At this time the frame was painted with black direct to metal (DTM) paint.

Brake System:The first order of business was to determine what there was to start with and what was needed for a complete functioning brake system. Upon inspecting the existing brake system we determined that the front disk-pad assemblies were ok, the rear drum assemblies needed to be rebuilt and new master cylinder with associated components, brake lines and fittings had to be added.

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Relined brake shoes as well as new brake cylinders were installed and the drums were turned. The rear end is a Granda 8 inch, when I referred to the 1975 thru 80 manual I noticed a anchor pin plate was shown. However, there were no plates in the brake parts box that came with the car and as can be seen above there was no room for a plate on the anchor pin. We  determined that this must be an earlier rear end that didn't use anchor plates. 

Refer to the Brake System Diagram for a list of components, materials and suppliers. I mounted the  remote fill master cylinder, booster, and adapter in place. I used 1/8" diameter steel wire to mock up the brake hydraulic lines to determine how much tubing I needed which came out to approximately 25 feet. Once the tubing and fittings were on hand Jack and I went to work fabricating the brake lines. We found that double flaring the 1/4"  tubing that I had purchased with the ----- tool was difficult to get good uniform flares, also we had to make the fitting extremely tight to stop leaks. The next time I do this procedure, either I'll use a different type tubing or flaring tool or both. 

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We installed the remote fill master cylinder, the booster diaphragm and conversion adapter in the frame. Next the location of the adjustable proportioning valve was determined, 2 holes were drilled in the frame to match those in the valve body, then the valve was fastened in place with 2ea #10-32x1.5" screws, locks and nuts. Next #12 mechanics wire was used to mock up the brake line section lengths and bends making allowance for a 2 psi (front) and a 10 psi (rear) residual pressure valves.

Lengths were cut and ends were chamfered using a tubing cutter.  3/16"x3/16" male inverted fittings were slid onto the tubing sections and the ends were flared using a double flaring tool. Bends were made using a tubing bender and forming pliers. The tubing was then connected point to point using 1/8" pipe to 3/16" inverted flare adapters where required (residual valves). 

My plan was to keep the lines inside the frame and use a feed-through on each side to go out to the front wheel cylinders. There are AN feed-throughs available, however they are expensive and along with necessary adapters become quite large. I decided to make  a set of feed-throughs from two 1/2"x2" NF bolts. 

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I began by cutting the hex heads off , then using my lathe to drill a 7/16" hole through the center of the bolts. Next I parted off 1" of the threaded portion of the drilled out bolts. Finally I ran a 1/8" pipe tap into each end of the 1" section. In order to hold the 1 " sections in a vise for tapping, two 1/2 " NF jam nuts were used. The above photos are of the complete assembly made up of two 3/16" inverted flare to 1/8" pipe adapters, the feed-through, two 1/2" NF jam nuts and a 1/2" lock washer.  

Pilot holes were drilled through the predetermined feed-through locations in the frame, then a step drill was used to open the holes to 9/16". 

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Note that a 1/8" pipe tee was treaded into the left feed-through, then two 1/8" to inverted flare adapters were screwed into the tee. There must be simpler ways of doing this, however, it's what I came up with using what I had available.

Note: The following is out of sequence, it was actually done after the body was mounted on the frame. However, I wanted to keep all the brake stuff together so I put the remote fill reservoir and connecting tubing installation here. However, the remote fill master cylinder leaked at the plunger end and I could’nt stop it. I decided to abandon the remote and go to reservoir contained master cylinder. I kept the remote reservoir and tubing in place in case I wanted to try again later. With that in mind I will leave the following procedure. 

I decided to put the remote fill reservoir in the trunk just behind the rear seat. First I had to fabricate the front and bottom of what will be a compartment which will contain the remote fill reservoir and battery and whatever else I decide to put in there.

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I  cut a separation panel out of 1/2" plywood in 2 pieces to allow for insertion into the space, also 1"X2" connecting piece was cut to length and a riser block was cut from a 1" X8"board. Next I cut a 2"X2" piece to length to support 1 side of the shelf, the other side to be supported by the rear end hump. I then cut a 3 piece shelf from a 1"X8" board.

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Using the plastic tubing supplied with the remote fill reservoir and 2 each --" grommets, I located and drilled 2 exit holes              under the shelf.

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The tubing passes from the trunk into the frame then transitions to 3/16 steel brake line tubing via a barb to male 1/8" pipe,                a female 1/8" pipe to female 3/16" inverted flare. The supplied plastic tubing weeped fluid so I went to neoprene tubing I purchased at CarQuest.

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Body Made Ready: Filling unwanted holes in the firewall/cowl and floor as well as undercoating the body were completed before the body was reunited to the frame.

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Plugs were made for the cowl vent opening and firewall holes and welded in place.

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Cowl/firewall in the final stage of guide coat sanding, then after it was painted candy apple red.

Remount Body on frame: The frame has been updated and painted and the body has been undercoated, so the next procedure is to assemble the two.

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The procedure was to use the electric hoist to lift the body off the body cart, put the new frame cushion set that I had purchased from C&G Early Ford Parts in place and 

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Motor Mounts: Once the body was remounted on the frame, I found the most rear portion of the left valve cover was 2" from the firewall. This should be approximately 3/8" otherwise the water pump pulley would be into the electric fan mounted on the radiator. The motor mounts had to be moved, the originally installed mounts had to be cut off, so I decided to new biscuit  type mounts. 

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 After the old motor mounts were removed mounting plates were cut out and temporarily fastened in place with metal screws.

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 The engine was blocked in place, the replacement motor mounts were bolted to the engine, then tack welded to the            

  mounting plates.

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The plates with the mounts tacked on were removed and finish welded then replaced on frame with metal screws holding them in place and then welded all the way around.

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The down turned sections of the left motor mount had to be ground to make clearance for the steering shaft.

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I decided to change from a manual steering rack to a 58 T bird power unit and to use stronger mounts. 

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The power rack was installed for a  trial fit then removed, next the motor and rack mounts were painted.


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The motor and power rack were installed 

Exhaust System:

I decided to use a Flow Master 2 1/4"  kit to fabricate an exhaust system from.  Some of the photos are of the left side and some the right, both sides are identical except some bends are reversed so it shouldn't matter.      

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This is approximately 1/2 the exhaust kit, and examples of clamps I used, the clamps were not included in the kit.  

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The left head pipe was made up of 3 short sections and a header flange. The head pipe to muffler piece was made from 1 section with a small piece cut out to shorten the distance between the bends.

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Right and left header to muffler connections each made up of 2 fabbed pieces that will be clamped together.  

                                      

Left header to head pipe flange.                                                    Left head pipe in place and clamped to frame.

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Muffler with extension welded on. I applied 2 coats of Lizard Skin and a piece of stick-on insulation to the bottom side of the floor board over each muffler.

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The left muffler, viewed from the front.                                            Horizontal clamp to position tail pipe for cross member clearance.         

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 The left tail pipe passing through the frame cross-member.         The left tail pipe with a hanger clamp to hold it in place.

  

Front of Motor Brackets and Spacers: I found that brackets and spacers to place the alternator, AC compressor and power steering pump where I wanted them were not available so I had to fab my own.

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The front of the motor with the alternator placed using brackets I purchased, but thats where I wanted the AC compressor to be so I decided to make a complete set of stainless brackets and spacers. The procedure was a 3 step process: first mock up the brackets in 5/16" plywood, then aluminum and finally stainless. The plywood and aluminum pieces were cut out using my saber saw, the stainless, using a friends plasma cutter then ground and filed for a finished edge.

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The AC compressor held in place with aluminum brackets and spacers and a turnbuckle for adjustment. Also shown is the plywood  mock up of the base-plate for the alternator and power steering pump. 

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Plywood mock ups of the p.s. pump and alternator brackets      Alu. alt. bracket and additional plywood alt. bracket.

  

        Lower  alternator bracket made from aluminum.                                       Spacers for alternator brackets.   

    

    

                  Stainless base and P.S. pump brackets.                         Stainless brackets and spacers in place along with ac        

                                                                                                                compressor, alternator, P.S. Pump and belts.

Move Engine Back Another 1":  Earlier when I replaced the homemade motor and transmission mounts with manufactured ones I followed the accompanying instructions completely. Now that the brackets, spacers, pulleys and units were in place I could see that the motor was still too far forward. I put the radiator and electric fan in place and did some measurements which indicated that the motor needed to move back an additional 1". This meant modifying the firewall and motor and transmission mounts. (Lesson learned: "manufacturer's instructions don't necessarily fit every application", I should have had the radiator, electric fan, water pump and pulley in place when I installed the mounts.) Oh well, it was too late for that so here's how I solved the problem.

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I removed the bolts holding the motor/transmission to the mounts and moved the motor/transmission back until the valve covers touched the firewall. Then the firewall was marked where pockets were to be for valve cover clearance. I next moved the motor/transmission ahead and covered it with a tarp. Using an air cutter I removed the material where the two pockets were to be placed.

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                                        The pockets were fabbed from 20 gauge steel and welded into cutouts  

                                                

The cutouts were tacked in place, the motor/transmission removed, the cutouts welded solid, ground, primed and painted.

                                                                    Motor/transmission re-installed. 

Gauges: Classic Instruments gauges and transducers were purchased from Sunrise Color. My dilemma was “how to make round gauges fit into square openings. The solution was to grind off the edges of the gauge bessels so they fit close together. This solution was suggested by Steve at  Sunrise Color.

  

         Gauges with edges ground and SS dash frame.                   back side of gauges and provided mounting hardware


  


  

     Backside of unwired gauges installed in dash.                            There you have it, round gauges in square openings.

Wiring: New wiring was installed using an American Autowire Highway 22 wiring kit purchased from  Sunrise Color. The plan was not to drill any holes in the firewall so the wiring was to run through the cowl kick panels and into the frame. 

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The battery was placed in the trunk utility compartment, the cables were run out through 5/8" grommets into the right frame rail. Then the battery cables were passed forward through the right frame rail using cable T clamps.

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Positive cable was connected to the starter solenoid and negative cable to to bell housing then to frame. The Loom containing the system main power cable and neutral safety wire was routed over the right frame rail and through a 5/8" grommet into the rock  guard.  

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A opening was made in the outside of the rock guard to route the loom. Then then at the back of the wheel well through another grommet  into the space under the kick panel area.  

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Through a third grommet into the kick panel area, and up across the top of the cowl.

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To the main fuse box, and on to the electrical distribution panel.

    

             Now to wire from the distribution panel to the end points through the right side of the cowl and kick panel.                                                                       ‘                         I’ve never found a neat and clean way of doing this, it always seems to become a gob. 

    

Then as the wire is put inside loom, things start to look better 

    



Wiring to be continued. 

Emergency Brake: (Under Construction)

The original emergency brake cable assembly was not complete, so a new Lokar assembly was purchased. Installing this new assembly first required the removing of left rear hub and the original emergency brake cable and housing retainer. Next the Lokar cable was installed through the left rear backing plate using the Locker retainer and attached to the parking brake lever. Replaced the left rear hub. The forgoing was repeated on the right rear hub and brake assembly.

Laid out 3 cables under car and attempted to determine where to run the  cables and attach the cable block and adjusters. At this point I was quite confused so I called Steve at Sunrise Color. He said to run the hand brake cable down the inside of the left frame rail as far as it would go. At that point place the block and adjusters. Run the left brake cable strait from the left rear hub to one of the cable adjusters. Then run the right brake cable from right rear hub up over the drive shaft and forward to the remaining adjuster. 

First I had to Remove the left muffler and tail pipe. Then I laid positioned the block and adjuster assembly on inside of the frame and marked and drilled the bracket holes. Next the cable block was fastened in place and the adjusters were connected to rear emergency cables. The adjusters were tightened until the rear wheels were locked with the emergency brake handle was pulled back and when released the wheels moved freely.

Description of photos soon. 

    

    

     

  

    

    

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