4b)'47

Exhaust Fabrication

Exhaust System:

I decided to use a Flow Master 2 1/4"  kit to fabricate an exhaust system from.  Some of the photos are of the left side and some the right, both sides are identical except some bends are reversed so it shouldn't matter.      

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This is approximately 1/2 the exhaust kit, and examples of clamps I used, the clamps were not included in the kit.  

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The left head pipe was made up of 3 short sections and a header flange. The head pipe to muffler piece was made from 1 section with a small piece cut out to shorten the distance between the bends.

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Right and left header to muffler connections each made up of 2 fabbed pieces that will be clamped together.  

  

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Left header to head pipe flange.                                                    Left head pipe in place and clamped to frame.

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Muffler with extension welded on. I applied 2 coats of Lizard Skin and a piece of stick-on insulation to the bottom side of the floor board over each muffler.

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The left muffler, viewed from the front.                                            Horizontal clamp to position tail pipe for cross member clearance.        

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The left tail pipe passing through the frame cross-member.    The left tail pipe with a hanger clamp to hold it in place.

Front of Motor Brackets and Spacers: I found that brackets and spacers to place the alternator, AC compressor and power steering pump where I wanted them were not available so I had to fab my own.

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The front of the motor with the alternator placed using brackets I purchased, but thats where I wanted the AC compressor to be so I decided to make a complete set of stainless brackets and spacers. The procedure was a 3 step process: first mock up the brackets in 5/16" plywood, then aluminum and finally stainless. The plywood and aluminum pieces were cut out using my saber saw, the stainless, using a friends plasma cutter then ground and filed for a finished edge.

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The AC compressor held in place with aluminum brackets and spacers and a turnbuckle for adjustment. Also shown is the plywood  mock up of the base-plate for the alternator and power steering pump. 

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Plywood mock ups of the p.s. pump and alternator brackets      Alu. alt. bracket and additional plywood alt. bracket.

     

Lower  alternator bracket made from aluminum.                         Spacers for alternator brackets.  

    

    

  Stainless base and P.S. pump brackets.                                      Stainless brackets and spacers in place along with ac        

                                                                                                                compressor, alternator, P.S. Pump and belts.

Move Engine Back Another 1":  Earlier when I replaced the homemade motor and transmission mounts with manufactured ones I followed the accompanying instructions completely. Now that the brackets, spacers, pulleys and units were in place I could see that the motor was still too far forward. I put the radiator and electric fan in place and did some measurements which indicated that the motor needed to move back an additional 1". This meant modifying the firewall and motor and transmission mounts. (Lesson learned: "manufacturer's instructions don't necessarily fit every application", I should have had the radiator, electric fan, water pump and pulley in place when I installed the mounts.) Oh well, it was too late for that so here's how I solved the problem.

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I removed the bolts holding the motor/transmission to the mounts and moved the motor/transmission back until the valve covers touched the firewall. Then the firewall was marked where pockets were to be for valve cover clearance. I next moved the motor/transmission ahead and covered it with a tarp. Using an air cutter I removed the material where the two pockets were to be placed.

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The pockets were fabbed from 20 gauge steel and welded into cutouts

    

The cutouts were tacked in place, the motor/transmission removed, the cutouts welded solid, ground, primed and painted.